Annie Dillard on Bethlehem

In her book For the Time Being, Annie Dillard writes this about her experience in the grotto of the Church of the Nativity:

"I have never read any theologian who claims that God is particularly interested in religion, anyway.

Any patch of ground anywhere smacks more of God's presence on earth, to me, than did this marble grotto. The ugliness of the blunt and bumpy silver star impressed me. The bathetic pomp of the heavy, tasseled brocades, the marble, the censers hanging from chains, the embroidered antependium, the aspergillum, the crosiers, the ornate lamps--some human's idea of elegance--bespoke grand comedy, too, that God put up with it. And why should he not? Things here on earth get a whole lot worse than bad taste.

'Every day,' said Rabbi Nachman of Bratslav, 'the glory is ready to emerge from its debasement'."

Without diminishing the significance of the silver star in Bethlehem, Dillard is right: "any patch of ground" is holy land. Any place can be a site of encounter, as Jacob discovered one night. After his dream of the ladder to heaven, he woke and said, "Surely the LORD is in this place, and I did not know it!" (Genesis 28:16). And any encounter, with God or stranger, can be a meeting that transforms (as Jacob also discovered with a night-time wrestler, as told in Genesis 32). Perhaps I read too much of a universal import into those narratives. Even so, it strikes me that I am often resistant to "the glory . . . ready to emerge," especially when that glory appears in the shape of the unfamiliar and the uncomfortable.

Photo Lerma Olayres.

Christmas in Bethlehem 2009

We all know that Christmas is about Jesus. Yet for residents of Bethlehem, Christmas has always been about Jesus, as well as about welcoming pilgrims. According to Luke's account of the nativity, Mary and Joseph found no place "in the inn" (2:7, NRSV). As Kenneth Bailey has argued, "inn" is best understood as "guest room." Even if he's right (and I think he is), the irony of the NRSV translation is this: in 2009 most of the hotels in Bethelehem have plenty of space for guests. Most groups come to the Church of the Nativity for a brief visit and then leave (I know I've said this before in earlier blogs). But now on Christmas eve it's particularly relevant.

Watch this Al Jazeera video by journalist Nour Odeh about "Bethlehem's Christmas Blues." It shows us the current reality in Bethlehem. (Thanks to Rachelle Friesen for alerting me to this piece).

Church of the Nativity

What I like most about visiting the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is not seeing "the star" in the floor of the grotto that supposedly "marks the spot" where Jesus was born. It's being in a place where followers of Jesus have worshiped and commemorated the nativity since the second century.

The pillars in the photo at the left are mostly from the original fourth century church (Photo Christopher Chan). To read about the church, have a look at the Sacred Destinations website. Here's a sample:

"In 326, Constantine and his mother St. Helena commisioned a church to be built over the cave. This first church, dedicated on May 31, 339, had an octagonal floor plan and was placed directly above the cave. In the center, a 4-meter-wide hole surrounded by a railing provided a view of the cave. Portions of the floor mosaic (my photo below) survive from this period. St. Jerome lived and worked in Bethlehem from 384 AD, and he was buried in a cave beneath the Church of the Nativity.

The Constantinian church was destroyed by Justinian in 530 AD, who built the much larger church that remains today. The Persians spared it during their invasion in 614 AD because, according to legend, they were impressed by a representation of the Magi — fellow Persians — that decorated the building. This was quoted at a 9th-century synod in Jerusalem to show the utility of religious images.

Muslims prevented the application of Hakim's decree (1009) ordering the destruction of Christian monuments because, since the time of Omar (639), they had been permitted to use the south transept for worship.

The Crusaders took Jerusalem on 6 June 1009. Baldwin I and II were crowned there, and in an impressive display of tolerance the Franks and Byzantines cooperated in fully redecorating the interior (1165-69). A Greek inscription in the north transept records this event."

To read more about the Church of the Nativity, CLICK HERE. See also the Photo Gallery at the Sacred Destinations website.

NOVA: The Bible's Buried Secrets

Every tour group to the Holy Land, unless it is a short ten day tour, runs the risk of experiencing archaeological site fatigue. My guide, Khalil, happens to love ancient water systems. After the sixth or so water system some of us began to tease Khalil. Over the days, however, we discovered, in spite of ourselves, that we had gained an insight into life in ancient Israel/Canaan. Water is a precious resource that must be protected. I am tempted to digress by mentioning why water continues to be a contested resource in Israel & Palestine. But more on that in another blog.

For now, let me say that archaeological site fatigue can be remedied in two ways. One depends on the guide, who should be able to bring the site to life by telling stories that link the site to the biblical and historical record. A second depends on the tour participant. I suggest prospective tour participants do some reading and viewing to discover what archaeology contributes to our understanding of the ancient world, and of the biblical text.

For a very fine exploration of that topic, one can hardly do better than to watch NOVA's (PBS television) "The Bible's Buried Secrets." That web page offers a variety of interactive pieces, including short articles, timelines, and videos on interesting topics like "Moses and the Exodus," "The Palace of David," "Archaeology of the Hebrew Bible," and more. Every one of the links on this page is worth having a look at.

NOVA's must-see two hour television program has been divided into 13 chapters, each of which can be viewed separately. If that link doesn't allow you to view the videos, you can watch it by CLICKING HERE. When one episode is done, click "next" at the top left of the screen.

Becoming informed about archaeology will provide you with a few resources that allow you to be able to ask the right kinds of questions on the site, and to understand better why the "ancient stones" are relevant to a tour like this.

Annunciation Goes Global in Nazareth

I've always marveled at the mosaics in the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth. They tell us in visual language the biblical story of the angel Gabriel's announcement of Jesus' birth to Mary Luke 1:26-38. Hearing the gospel reading in worship this morning reminded me of my many visits to that amazing church, the largest in the Middle East.

Nazareth is also famous in Luke's gospel as Jesus' home town, where he read his famous "manifesto" from the prophet Isaiah, "The Spirit of the Lord is upon me, because he has anointed me to bring good news to the poor. He has sent me to proclaim release to the captives, and recovery of sight to the blind, to let the oppressed go free, to proclaim the year of the Lord's favor" (Luke 4:18-29; citing Isaiah 61;1-2; 58:6).

It isn't surprising that this same infusion of the Holy Spirit that settled on Mary (Luke 1:34) also empowered Jesus. Could it be that Jesus embraced his mission of justice after learning it from his mother? After all, her empowerment expressed itself in poetic form, imagining God as one who "has scattered the proud in the thoughts of their hearts. He has brought down the powerful from their thrones, and lifted up the lowly; he has filled the hungry with good things, and sent the rich away empty" (Luke 1:51-53).

On visiting the Church of the Annunciation, one is struck by the many mosaics that line the walls of the upper level of the church, and of the courtyard walls. Each mosaic depicts either the annunciation scene itself, or Mary with the infant Jesus. Each is designed as imagined by an artist from a different country. It is striking that each one reflects a cultural embodiment, suggesting that this story transcends Nazareth. God's presence, as incarnated in Jesus, is understood as transposed into the garb and idiom of scores of nationalities and ethnicities. Here are a few of the images. Not all of these images are easily photographed, since lighting is limited and flash is not allowed. Click on each one to see the mosaic in a larger format.Japan

France

Brazil

Australia

Cameroon

Italy

Mexico

Thailand

Although you can find more images online, nothing substitutes for meditating quietly on these mosaics in the church itself. I've often experienced being overwhelmed by the diversity of perceptions and perspectives. I have a distinct sense that Jesus doesn't belong to Nazareth; he belongs to the world.

To have a look at an overview of Nazareth, visit the official Nazareth Cultural and Tourism website, where you can see a good slide show on the Church, or the Sacred Destinations web page, where you can read about the history of the site. They also have a photo gallery link there. To watch a video (4:35 mins.) on the church, click here.

When Was Jesus Born?

Photo Tamer Shabaneh.

The other day I was listening to the The Blind Boys of Alabama Christmas CD (Go Tell it On the Mountain). The song "When Was Jesus Born" struck me as worth commenting on during Advent (please do read to the end to watch the video). The fact is, shepherds were not tending their sheep in Bethlehem's "fields" in late December ("the last month of the year," as the song goes) but in summer or into September, some time after the grain harvest in April and May (Luke 2:8-10). Flocks simply wouldn't have been allowed in the fields until then. And that reminds me that we will be visiting the Shepherds' Fields in Beit Sahour, just outside Bethlehem, on May 1, 2010 (our first day on the ground). Although one website I read recently claimed Jesus was born on September 29, 05 B.C., it could have been May. So perhaps we'll celebrate with the shepherds and the angels that day.

I have a wonderful memory of one of my visits to that site (Christmas, 1991). There's a beautiful chapel at the Franciscan site. It was designed by the Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi in 1954 (more on his work in another blog posting). As we were leaving the site, we heard a group inside the chapel singing the old standby, "Angels We Have Heard On High." Our daughter, 3 years old at the time, on hearing the chorus "Gloria in excelsis deo," asked, "Mommy, where are the angels?"

"Tradition"locates the Shepherds' Fields in least two places, one run by the Greek Orthodox and the other by the Franciscans. As one looks around the village of Beit Sahour, one realizes that the entire region surrounding Bethlehem would have been cultivated in grain. Remember the biblical story of Ruth and Boaz? David Roberts' lithograph (1842) presents that image well. CLICK HERE to locate the shepherds' fields on an interactive map of the Bethlehem region.

So whatever the date (let's say some time in summer), the song "When Was Jesus Born" is still worth listening to. You can hear the crystal clear version sung by the Stars of Faith, with Marion Williams singing lead (video version here). I like the raucous Winans' version set in the context of a Christmas party. Best of all is this video of the Blind Boys of Alabama stealing the show from a very staid Christmas Pageant.

King Herod in Bethlehem and Beyond

Thinking about Bethlehem during Advent reminds us of King Herod, whose tomb was discovered in 2007 just outside the city at the fortress called Herodium. I was pleased to be able to see it for the first time when I led the Ancient Stones, Living Stones tour in the spring of 2008.

Of course Herod and Bethlehem are related to one another in several texts, particularly in Matthew's gospel. Herod appears in the story of the Magi's visit (2:1-12) and in the story of the massacre of the infants (2:16-18). These stories remind us of what Matthew's gospel is doing with the notion of power. Herod, for Matthew, stands in for Pharaoh of the Exodus story. Matthew's gospel even tells us that Mary's and Joseph's escape with baby Jesus is an ironic escape to Egypt because Herod is looking to kill him. Matthew explains the irony by quoting the prophet Hosea, "Out of Egypt I have called my son" (Matt 2:15; Hosea 11:1). The Magi, of course, want to pay "homage" to this new king. The Greek word for "homage" appears three times in Matt 2:1-12, and thirteen times in all in Matthew's gospel (and by comparison not many times in other gospels). Another way of rendering the word "homage" is "worship." Matthew has an agenda. Jesus is the object of worship, of homage, not Herod, nor any other power (cf. 4:9).

Looking at Herod's tomb at the Herodium reminds us of power gone awry. During this tour we will visit at least five of Herod's massive building projects (Herodium, Masada, Temple Mount, Hebron Sanctuary of the Ancestors, and Caesarea by the sea). According to Matthew, King Jesus is building a kingdom whose evidence is discerned in a new community concerned with justice and peace, not in grand stone structures (Matt 16:19).

Read this recent National Geographic article on "King Herod Revealed." Don't miss the Photo Gallery by Michael Melford, and the King Herod quiz!

Banksy in Bethlehem

The first time I entered Bethlehem after the separation barrier had been built, I felt as though I were imprisoned. Unless one stays inside an air-conditioned bus, the massive guard tower and the eight meter high wall (see the photo on a previous blog post) make it impossible to avoid that experience. Tourists are easily whisked into Manger Square for the requisite visit to the Church of the Nativity. But I like my groups to linger for a while. By staying in Bethlehem for four nights, we'll be able to have a richer experience.

One of the blessings of a longer stay is the opportunity to see some of the graffiti art on the separation barrier. The most prominent pieces are those painted by Banksy, a "quasi-anonymous British graffiti artist" (Wikipedia). In 2005 Banksy painted nine images on the wall. Some of those, like the one of the little girl frisking a soldier at a security checkpoint, can be seen on the side of a building in Behlehem. I took that picture in 2006.Here are a few more:

Hole in the wall:
Let's climb over?

Imagining a paradise:

Of course others are also adding variety:



We can only imagine what it must be like for ordinary people to face that wall every day. This house in Bethlehem is surrounded on three sides by the separation wall.



Banksy's graffiti art offers a slightly hopeful imagination, even if terribly ironic, to those who must live with this constant reminder that their only hope for freedom of movement is emigration.

Sinai: A Separate Peace

The March 2009 issue of National Geographic has a fine article: "Sinai: A Separate Peace." Amid a sea of conflict, the Sinai offers pleasure, spiritual refuge, and—potentially—harmony. Here's a paragraph to whet your appetite for reading the whole article.

"For millennia the Sinai Peninsula has served as a bridge. A land bridge for people moving from one continent to another, yes, but also a metaphysical bridge between man and God. The forebears of the three great monotheistic religions are all said to have sought refuge in this triangular desert. According to the Bible, Moses received his assignment in Sinai when God spoke to him from the burning bush, then wandered the desert with his people for 40 years. As a child, Jesus and his family fled into Sinai to escape a jealous King Herod's wrath. Early Christians hid from Roman persecutors among the peninsula's lonely mountains, establishing some of the first monastic communities."

Do not miss having a look at this very fine MAP, and a Photo Gallery by Matt Moyer. The photos and the article depict Sinai in all its contradictions, hosting both ancient traditions and modern indulgences. CLICK HERE for a printer ready version of the article (without page breaks).

Approaching Bethlehem in Advent

This advent season, as we anticipate entering the story that took place long ago in Bethlehem, we think of the angelic announcement to the shepherds in the fields: "To you is born this day in the city of David a Savior, who is the Messiah, the Lord" (Luke 2:11). That announcement is prefaced by the declaration, "Do not be afraid . . . I am bringing you good news" (2:10). Yet there were good reasons to be afraid, not only of the angelic apparition, but also of the consequences of affirming such politically loaded titles as Savior, Messiah, and Lord, which were applied either to Roman emperors or associated with Jewish expectations related to the overthrow of Roman colonial rule.

We will be entering Bethlehem when we arrive on April 30, 2010. We go there for a variety of reasons. One of those reasons, of course, is to ponder the story of Jesus' birth and to ask how his birth intersects with our lives and the lives of those who live in Bethlehem today. Unfortunately, Bethlehem is now walled off with the security wall you see pictured above. The great irony of the wall is displayed on a huge sign hung there by the Israel Ministry of Tourism. I do indeed wish for peace for all who enter these gates. Unfortunately, not all can come and go as they please. Palestinian Christians living in Jerusalem, for example, cannot go to Bethlehem for the Christmas celebrations. This common Middle Eastern greeting "Peace be with you," is not easily experienced in its full sense by Jesus followers living in the region. Jesus' birthplace has restricted access.

A contemporary cartoon about the magi trying to enter Bethlehem by digging under the wall is now on offer as a set of Christmas cards. This image has been criticized by some who suggest that it presents an unfortunate (and inappropriate) link between the ancient biblical story and contemporary political realities. Perhaps. But think for a moment about Mary's expectations (Luke 2:52-53), or those of Zechariah (Luke 2:71, 74), or of the question raised later in the gospel about whether Jesus' approach to Jerusalem might spark the onset of God's kingdom (Luke 19:11). Wouldn't it make sense to insist that the place where the "prince of peace" (Isaiah 9:6) was born be open and accessible to all?

Do you remember what the angels announced in their short poem of praise? "Glory to God in the highest heaven, and on earth peace among those whom he favours" (Luke 2:14). May this story continue to challenge the powers that be, from every nation on earth, to heed Jesus' beatitude, "Blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall see God."

Who Owns the Holy Land?

This is the hottest topic for participants on tours to the Holy Land. Voices in the debate reflect every colour of the theological or ideological spectrum. Theologian Gabriel Fackre once wrote an article in which he set out some twelve or more Christian perspectives alone. It's not possible to approach this subject dispassionately. Over the next few months I will be recommending a few items that tour participants can read ahead of time. I'll begin by suggesting the short article by Gary Burge (Professor at Wheaton College) in Books & Culture: A Christian Review. The article, titled "Who Owns the Holy Land?" is the second in a series. I mentioned the first one, by Gerald McDermott, in a blog on November 1, 2009. CLICK HERE to read the article.

Pool of Siloam Discovered

In the Gospel of John we read of a blind man whose sight is restored after being told by Jesus, "Go, wash in the pool of Siloam." The original pool has recently been uncovered. It is located near the bottom of the hill in the traditional area of the "City of David," which has long been an Arab section of Jerusalem called Silwan (taking its name from Siloam) just south of the Old City.

We will be visiting this site on May 7, where I will share some reflections on the motifs of "water" and "seeing" in John's gospel. This site will provide us with an occasion, as pilgrims, to enter imaginatively into the biblical story and ask, How does this text enter my experience?

According to Biblical Archaeology Review, this pool is one of the top ten archaeological discoveries related to the Bible. According to the Biblical Archaeology Review, "Traditionally, the site was believed to be the pool and church that were built by the Byzantine empress Eudocia (c. 400–460 A.D.) to commemorate the miracle recounted in the New Testament. However, the exact location of the pool itself as it existed during the time of Jesus remained a mystery until June 2004. During construction work to repair a large water pipe south of Jerusalem’s Temple Mount, on the ridge known as the City of David, archaeologists Ronny Reich and Eli Shukron identified two ancient stone steps. Further excavation revealed that they were part of a monumental pool from the Second Temple period, the period in which Jesus lived. The structure Reich and Shukron discovered was 225 feet long, with corners that are slightly greater than 90 degrees, indicating a trapezoidal shape, with the widening end oriented toward Tyropoeon valley. The pool is adjacent to the area in the ancient City of David known as the King’s Garden, and is just southeast of the remains of the fifth-century church and pool originally believed to be the sacred site.

The pool is fed by waters from the Gihon Spring, located in the Kidron Valley. As with many sites in the Holy Land, the origins of the Siloam Pool reach back even further in history—at least seven centuries before the time of Jesus. Judah’s King Hezekiah (late eighth century B.C.) correctly anticipated a siege against Jerusalem by the Assyrian monarch Sennacherib. To protect the city’s water supply during the siege, Hezekiah undertook a strategic engineering project that would be an impressive feat in any age: He ordered the digging of a 1,750-foot tunnel under the City of David to bring water from the Gihon Spring, which lay outside the city wall, inside the city to a pool on the opposite side of the ridge. In the years that followed, “Hezekiah’s Tunnel” continued to carry fresh water to this section of Jerusalem, and different pools were built here over the centuries, including the Second Temple pool that Jesus knew."

To have a look at more pictures and articles on the Pool of Siloam, CLICK HERE to go to the BiblePlaces website.